In the Southern Rhône’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, there is one vineyard that stands literally and figuratively above the rest: The high-altitude plateau of La Crau, covered in rounded stones called galets roulés. And from those galets come our Number 7 Wine of the Year: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2020